Spring & Fall Transition

Spring Transition

When the temperatures start warning up, your overseeded sod will begin to transition from the rye grass to summer hybrid bermuda grasses. This usually happens from end of March to April. At this time you'll start mowing your yard more frequently to make the transition from winter to summer grass a little easier. You goal is to remove about 50% of your grass. ​When the nighttime temperatures reach over 65 degrees at night, that's when the grass really starts to transition from winter grass over to summer grass. As the winter grass is "slowly going" away, the summer grass is coming out of it's dormat state.

Easy Steps for Overseeded Grass - from Winter to Spring

1.) When the nighttime temperatures are 65 degrees at night, you'll begin scalping your grass. You want to remove 50% of your grass.

2.) Also start reducing your your watering schedule, but don't completely stop watering, the grass roots still need water. Cutting back on       watering stresses out the grass and helps the rye grass go away quicker. Your goal is for the winter grass to go away and the summer grass to come out it's winter dormat state and green up for the summer. Your grass should be scalped down now.

3.) Now fertilize with ammonium sulfate at a rate of 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet and deep soak lawn for at least 15 minutes for 2 days, 3 times a day at 7 am, 11 am and 3 pm. This is one of the most critical steps for transitioning the summer grasses. This step really speeds up the transition. With the grass scalped down, fertilizing grass and then deep soaking, it really helps "pop" the summer grass back. The summer grasses love the heat and sunshine. They won't grow without it.

Non-Overseeded Grass for Spring Transition

Follow the steps above for a beautiful summer lawn. However, if you've had the grass in for awhile and you don't overseed, you'll need to dethach your lawn. When the grass has been in over a year or two, thatch builds up. The summer grass in order to do well, needs the sunshine. The grass thatch build up blocks the sunshine, which these grass have to have. Use a dethatcher or verticutter to go over your lawn to remove all the old thatch build up.

Fall Transition

First of all you'll need to decide whether or not you'll be overseeding your lawn for the fall/winter months. It's totally up to you. If you're planning on overseeding your yard, the best time to overseed is around the second week of October, when the nighttime temperatures are consistently under 65 degrees at night.  We recommend using Perennial Rye Grass Seed, it's a little more expensive, but well worth it. Annual Rye Grass Seed has a tendency to become very wet and messy. It's confusing that our two winter grass seeds are called Perennial and Annual, because if you want a winter lawn, you'll need to overseed every fall, unlike the Spring/Summer Grasses which "come back" every spring/summer.

Easy Fall Overseeding Steps 

Sprinkler SystemBefore overseeding your lawn, make sure that your sprinkler system and timer are working properly.

Scalping: Begin by scalping down your lawn. You'll be removing all the thatch build up over the spring/summer growing season. Also, remove all the grass clippings. Keep in mind that it may take you several mowings to remove the grass. If you've got a lot of thatch build up, you may need to rent a dethatcher or verticutter to remove all the old grass. Your goal before overseeding, is to remove all the old grass, grass clippings and have the yard down to the nub.


Seeding:
 You can now begin seeding. We recommend about 10 to 12 pounds of Perennial Rye Grass Seed for every 1,000 square feet of lawn area 1,000 square feet of lawn area. If you put it down the seed thicker, the lawn area will be thicker and lusher.  When applying seed, it's  always best to go in 2 opposite directions, this minimized missing some areas. By going in opposite directions, it will give your lawn a more uniuniform look. It's really important to spread the seed as evenly as possible.


Fertilizing: You can fertilize before or after you decide to seed. It's best to use a starter fertilizer, such as ammonium phosphate at a rate of 16-20-0 or something similiar. You should use about 10 pounds of fertilizer for every 1,000 square feet. Once you have an established lawn, you should fertilize every month or two with a fertilizer that contains iron.


Mulch: We recommend adding mulch right after you've seeded. This holds moisture in and protects the seed. For a 1,000 square foot lawn area, use about 3 to 4 bags of mulch and lightly scatter over newly seeded lawn. You don't want the have the mulch too thick, otherwise the sun can't get to the seed.


Watering:
 You should water 4 to 5 times a day for short bursts of water for the first 7 to 10 days. It's critical that the seed be properly watered, this is when the seeds are germinating. After the 10 days, you can reduce your watering, by this time the grass should have grown to almost 1 inch. You can now reduce your watering to 2 to 3 times a day. After 2 weeks, you should be watering once a day. Once your winter lawn is mature, you have the option of watering every day or watering every other day. See our winter watereing schedule for watering times.


Mowing: Around 10 to 14 days, your lawn should be ready to mow. Follow the one-third rule, never remove more than one-third of grass. Your mower setting height should be around 3/4" to 1".

If you have any questions at any time, please feel free to contact us at 480-926-9761